Introduction

Looking for a cycling ride that blends natural beauty, cultural charm, and a dash of Japanese randomness? Set your sights on Shigaraki—affectionately known as “Tanuki Town.” This unique route takes you through the rolling countryside of Kansai to a town famous for its playful ceramic raccoon dog statues and centuries-old pottery tradition. This ride offers the perfect balance of exploration and enjoyment. An epic ride awaits.

Route

Route Highlights

Uji and Beyond

Starting from RBRJ Kyoto, the ride out to Shigaraki begins by heading south along the Higashi Takase River. Look to the east and you’ll see the abandoned Fushimi-Momoyama Castle perched up on the hill. Further down, you’ll pass the Matsumoto Sake Brewery before turning left at the Nawate Bridge and rolling down into Chushojima. Navigating your way through Chushojima, the route takes you across the Keihan Line and onto the Uji River. We find it easier to ride under the Kangetsu Bridge before looping back and crossing it to the other side. It’s a 7-kilometre road ride to Uji.

The first 30 kilometres of the ride follow the path that leads us to the Kyoto Yamashiro Chaikuru route, going beyond Uji. Ride slowly with the crowds around Byodo-in, or take route 3 to avoid the foot traffic. Once beyond Uji, you’ll be able to appreciate the scenery along the route with a little more solitude.

There are a few tunnels further along the 307. It’s possible to bypass the Osugi Tunnel, but it’s safer to cross to the right-hand side path as you approach both the Chaya and Urajiro Tunnels. After the tunnels, keep heading east into Shiga and pick up the Omi Grn Road that leads to Shigaraki.

At the 40 kilometre mark, you have arrived at what can only be described as Tanuki Town.  There are all manner of pots and ceramic creations. However, none are as ubiquitous as the Tanuki statues that seem to populate the tiny city of Shigaraki. From the moment you arrive, you will be greeted by one of the most iconic buildings in the town. An udon noodle shop shaped like a giant raccoon-dog.

Shigaraki – More than the Tanuki

Shigaraki is a picturesque town nestled in the hills of Shiga Prefecture, best known for its centuries-old tradition of pottery-making. At first glance, its streets lined with whimsical tanuki (raccoon dog) statues might seem like a tourist gimmick—but Shigaraki offers much more than just its signature attraction.

As one of Japan’s Six Ancient Kilns, Shigaraki has a rich ceramic heritage dating back to the 8th century. The local clay, prized for its warm tones and durability, has been shaped by generations of artisans. Visitors can explore working kilns, join hands-on pottery workshops, or visit the Shigaraki Ceramic Cultural Park, which showcases traditional ceramic works.

Beyond pottery, the town offers quiet nature trails, forested hills, and a slower pace that’s perfect for those looking to escape the bustle of the city. The rural landscape is especially captivating in autumn, when the surrounding forests blaze with vibrant color. There are delightful religious areas such as Shingu (God of matching), Atagotoki and Hiyoshi Shrines.

Whether you’re an art lover, a nature enthusiast, or a curious traveler, Shigaraki invites you to discover the depth and soul behind its iconic ceramics. If you just need a pit stop or want a coffee, the Noborigama Cafe has a lovely ambience and great coffee.

The Ride Back

After spending the day in Tanuki town it’s time to make tracks and get back to the Kyoto. Leaving Shigaraki and dissecting your way through the Shiga countryside, you’ll make your way over to route 422 and follow the Shigaraki River back towards Kyoto Prefecture. After leaving Shigaraki, you can feel yourself slipping back into the calming energy of nature and rural landscapes, especially at the remote Nagasaka Pass.

Finally, you’ll descend into Yamashina, Kyoto’s Eastern District and with good timing and weather, a beautiful sunset will be a sweet and final finishing touch to this epic ride. For those still with the legs for climbing, you can climb Sumizone-Dori and cut through to Fushimi. Alternatively, those feeling tired may prefer to follow the Yamashina and Uji Rivers back to Chushojima before the last few kilometres to RBRJ Kyoto.

Conclusion

Cycling to Shigaraki is more than just a scenic ride—it’s a journey into folklore, culture, and the warmth of local life. Pedalling past lush countryside and winding rivers, the playful tanuki statues serve as charming ambassadors of Shigaraki’s rich history. But it’s the rhythmic flow of the ride, the hidden shrines, and the welcoming smiles of craftsmen and café owners that truly transform this ride into something memorable. By journey’s end, you’ll have not only covered miles but gained a deeper appreciation for how stories and landscapes intertwine, making this ride a highlight of any Kansai adventure.